Brick Laying Basics: A Beginner's Guide to Masonry

Before You Start

Brick laying is an ancient skill that takes practice to master. This guide covers the fundamentals—enough to build a small garden wall, barbecue, or mailbox surround. Structural walls, chimneys, and load-bearing applications require professional experience.

Realistic expectations: Your first project won’t be perfect. Start small, practice your technique, and improve with each course.

Understanding Brick Basics

Brick Anatomy

• Face: The visible side in finished wall
• Header: Short end of brick
• Stretcher: Long side of brick
• Bed: Bottom surface (sits on mortar)
• Frog: Indentation on some bricks (faces up or down)

Standard Brick Sizes

Type	Dimensions (L × W × H)
Modular	7-5/8” × 3-5/8” × 2-1/4”
Standard	8” × 3-3/4” × 2-1/4”
King	9-5/8” × 2-3/4” × 2-5/8”
Utility	11-5/8” × 3-5/8” × 3-5/8”

With mortar joints: Add 3/8” to each dimension for coursing calculations.

Bond Patterns

Running bond: Most common, each brick overlaps half the one below. Strong and easy.

Stack bond: Bricks directly above each other. Decorative only—structurally weak without reinforcement.

English bond: Alternating rows of headers and stretchers. Very strong.

Flemish bond: Headers and stretchers alternate in each course. Traditional appearance.

For beginners: Start with running bond.

Tools for Brick Laying

Essential Tools

Brick trowel:

• Pointed or rounded blade
• Used for spreading mortar
• 10-11” blade for beginners

Jointing tools:

• Jointer (concave/round joint)
• V-jointer (V-shaped joint)
• Match existing style

Levels:

• 4-foot level (checking courses)
• Torpedo level (individual bricks)
• Line level (string line)

Other essentials:

• String line and blocks
• Tape measure
• Brick hammer or bolster
• Wheelbarrow
• Mortar hoe
• Hawk or mortar board
• Brushes

Helpful Tools

• Laser level
• Corner poles
• Story pole (marks course heights)
• Brick splitter or wet saw

Preparing Your Work Area

Foundation Requirements

Bricks must rest on a solid foundation:

• Concrete footing for structural walls
• Concrete slab for pavers
• Compacted gravel for some garden applications

Minimum footing: Width = 2× wall thickness, Depth = below frost line

Layout and Planning

1. Dry-lay first course without mortar
2. Check length against your planned wall
3. Plan for cuts at ends (minimize cuts)
4. Mark layout on foundation

Mixing Mortar

Pre-Mixed vs. Job-Mixed

Pre-mixed bags:

• Convenient for small projects
• Consistent proportions
• Type S or N for most brick work

Job-mixed:

• More economical for larger projects
• Requires accurate measuring
• Type N: 1 part cement, 1 part lime, 6 parts sand

Mixing Process

1. Add dry ingredients to wheelbarrow
2. Mix dry thoroughly
3. Add water gradually
4. Mix until smooth, creamy consistency
5. Should hold peak when trowel lifted

Consistency Test

• Too dry: Crumbly, won’t stick
• Too wet: Slumps, runs off trowel
• Just right: Holds shape, sticks briefly to trowel

Laying the First Course

Spread the Bed Joint

1. Wet the foundation lightly (but not standing water)
2. Load your trowel: Scoop mortar, shape on trowel
3. Spread mortar bed: 1” thick, wide enough for brick
4. Furrow the center: Drag trowel point through middle

Place the Corner Brick

1. Position at corner mark
2. Press firmly into mortar bed
3. Check level front-to-back and side-to-side
4. Check alignment to layout marks
5. Tap to adjust with trowel handle

This brick is your reference. Get it perfect.

Continue the First Course

For each brick:

1. Butter the head joint:

   • Spread mortar on end of brick
   • Form “pillow” shape
   • Or butter end of previously laid brick

2. Position brick:

   • Set against adjacent brick
   • Push to compress head joint

3. Tap into place:

   • Use trowel handle
   • Adjust height and level
   • Don’t disturb previously laid bricks

4. Remove excess mortar:

   • Slice off with trowel edge
   • Return to mortar board
   • Keep joints clean

5. Check frequently:

   • Level (both directions)
   • Alignment with string/level
   • Joint thickness (3/8” typical)

Building Up: Subsequent Courses

Establishing Corners

Professional masons build corners first, then fill between. For beginners:

Corner leads:

1. Build corner up 3-5 courses
2. Step back each course (like stairs)
3. Use level to check both faces
4. Creates reference for string line

Using String Line

1. Attach blocks to corner bricks
2. Pull string tight at top of course
3. Lay bricks to string line
4. Move string up for each course

String should be:

• 1/16” away from brick face
• Perfectly level
• Tight (no sag)

Maintaining Level Courses

Check every brick:

• Level along length
• Level across width
• Aligned to string

Adjust while mortar is plastic:

• Tap down high spots
• Add mortar under low spots
• Never remove and reposition (weakens bond)

Breaking Joints

In running bond, each brick overlaps the one below by half.

At ends of wall:

• Requires half bricks (closures)
• Cut with brick hammer or saw
• Alternate sides each course

Cutting Bricks

Brick Hammer Method

1. Mark cut line all around brick
2. Score line with chisel or hammer
3. Strike sharply on scored line
4. Break should follow score

Angle Grinder Method

1. Mark cut line
2. Cut along line with diamond blade
3. Wear safety glasses and dust mask
4. More accurate but dusty

Brick Splitter (Guillotine)

1. Adjust guide to desired size
2. Insert brick
3. Pull handle down sharply
4. Clean cut with practice

Tooling the Joints

When to Tool

• After mortar becomes “thumbprint hard”
• Usually 30-60 minutes after laying
• Mortar should leave clean mark when pressed

Tooling Process

1. Tool vertical joints first
2. Then horizontal joints
3. Press firmly for compression
4. Work consistently for uniform appearance
5. Brush loose mortar from brick faces

Common Joint Profiles

• Concave: Most weather-resistant, compressed
• V-joint: Sheds water, decorative
• Flush: Scraped flat, less weather resistant
• Raked: Recessed, decorative but traps water

Common Mistakes and Fixes

Mistake	Problem	Solution
Bricks not level	Wavy wall	Check every brick, adjust immediately
Joints too thick	Weak wall, off-pattern	Maintain 3/8” joint
Mortar too wet	Bricks slide, weak joints	Correct consistency before using
Working too slow	Mortar dries on bed	Work in smaller sections
Disturbing set bricks	Broken bond	Never reposition after mortar sets
No break in joints	Stack bond (weak)	Half-brick overlap minimum

Weather Considerations

Hot Weather (above 85°F)

• Dampen bricks before use
• Mix smaller mortar batches
• Work in shade if possible
• Keep mortar covered

Cold Weather (below 40°F)

• Don’t lay bricks below 40°F
• Protect new work from freezing
• Use heated enclosures for critical work
• Never use antifreeze (weakens mortar)

Rain

• Cover fresh work immediately
• Don’t lay in active rain
• Protect mortar from moisture
• Resume when surfaces dry

Practice Projects

Good First Projects

1. Garden edging - Single course, low stakes
2. Planter box - Small, decorative
3. Mailbox surround - Visible but small
4. Fire pit - Dry-stack or mortared

Work Up To

• Garden walls (low, non-structural)
• Outdoor kitchen/grill surround
• Patio columns

Leave to Professionals

• Structural walls
• Chimneys and fireplaces
• Foundation work
• Anything over 4 feet tall

Material Calculations

Bricks per square foot: Approximately 7 (modular bricks, running bond)

Mortar per 100 square feet: Approximately 8 cubic feet

Use our Masonry Calculator for precise estimates.

Skills Development

Practice Techniques

• Lay bricks on ground first (no mortar)
• Practice mortar consistency
• Build a practice wall you can tear down
• Time yourself—speed comes with practice

Signs of Improvement

• Consistent joint thickness
• Level courses without constant checking
• Faster pace with same quality
• Less wasted mortar

Calculate Your Masonry Project

Ready to estimate materials for your project? Use our free Masonry Calculator for accurate brick and mortar quantities.

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Pro Tip: Your mortar consistency and joint tooling make the biggest visual difference in a finished wall. Spend extra time getting these right. A wall with consistent 3/8” joints and properly tooled surfaces looks professional even if your brick placement isn’t perfect. Uneven joints and sloppy tooling make even well-laid bricks look amateur.